Installation Tips

 

Removal Troubleshooting Tips:

1. The jackbolts are hard to remove

2. The socket is "sticking" to the jackbolt hex's and is difficult to remove

3. A jackbolt broke during removal

4. The tensioner is stuck on the stud after all of the jackbolts have been loosened

• For tough applications, view our "Alternate Removal Procedure" (PDF)

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1. The jackbolts are hard to remove

The most common mistake with removal is unloading the jackbolts individually instead of gradually, per the removal procedure. As you loosen any given jackbolt, the load on the remaining jackbolts will increase slightly. It is essential that the jackbolts are turned no more than ¼ turn and that all jackbolts are unloaded gradually. Do not extract the jackbolts individually or you will eventually increase the load on the remaining jackbolts to the point that they could be stuck. You will risk breaking a jackbolt if excessive force is used.

•Hydraulic oil or similar can be used to reduce the removal torque required. Apply the hydraulic oil to each jackbolt thread and to the washer. The oil will help to reactivate the jackbolt lubricant. This is especially useful for removal after high temperature service. For inverted applications, apply the oil between the washer and the nut body. For high temperature applications, apply the oil as the equipment is cooling down and reapply as needed to keep the jackbolts wet. From 300°F - 600°F, use synthetic oil such as Mobile 1 to avoid "smoking" of the oil. Below 300°F, standard petroleum based oil can be used. Time permitting, keep the tensioners wetted with oil for a few hours or more. Minimum time should be 30-60 minutes.

•If any one jackbolt will not turn, try tightening the two jackbolts on either side slightly over the original installation torque and see if the stuck jackbolt will turn.

•Alternative Procedure (PDF format) - If you are still having difficulty after following the above removal recommendations, try the alternative removal procedure.

 

2. The socket is "sticking" to the jackbolt hex's and is difficult to remove.

Either the socket is wearing out or the wrong size socket is being used. Stop and get new sockets before you damage the jackbolt hex.

 

3. A jackbolt broke during removal

•Remove the remainder of the jackbolts and try spinning the tensioner off of the stud with force. Since the tensioners are cylindrical and do not have a hex to grip, a metal disc with a hex can be fabricated and secured to the tensioner body.

•If the tensioner will not spin, try cutting the jackbolt tip between the nut body and the washer.

•If the jackbolt tip cannot be cut due to a physical obstruction, try heating the nut body with a torch and removing it with force.

•Heating rods can be used if the studs are drilled out in the center

 

4. The tensioner is stuck on the stud after all of the jackbolts have been loosened.

•One possibility is that corrosion or oxidation has occurred between the nut and the main stud. The tensioner may only need a slight jolt. Try tapping it with a copper mallet. Since the tensioners are cylindrical and do not have a hex to grip, a metal disc with a hex can be fabricated and secured to the tensioner body.

•Another possibility is that the flange is still pushing back. This can happen when two surfaces that are not true to each other are brought together during tightening. Compression of surface gaps, warpage, or gaskets during tightening can result in some of the tensioners becoming loose while tightening neighboring studs. If some of the tensioners are spun down during tightening (although the procedure states not to do this) the flange may still be pushing back on some of the tensioners after the jackbolts are removed. Re-install the tensioners that were removed from the neighboring studs and tighten them until the load is released from the stuck tensioners.

 

Thank you for using Superbolt products. If you have any questions or need assistance, please call us at: 412-279-1149, or 1-800-345-BOLT (U.S.)